Weekend getaway steeped in scenery, legends
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E-mail Shanghai Daily, November 2, 2016
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Dinghu Peak is a 170-meter rock formation that the locals liken to a bamboo shoot. — Andy Boreham |
With a history dating back to AD 696 in the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) — or much earlier if you consider the legends of the Yellow Emperor and the dragon Chiyou — Jinyun County in east China’s Zhejiang Province is as green and beautiful as it must have been centuries ago.
The best way to experience the curling river, green mountains, wildflowers and rocky outcroppings is to park yourself in the Xiandu Scenic Area, which is just a few hours from Shanghai by high-speed train. It’s the perfect weekend getaway.
The scenic area, which covets the title of “National Key Place of Interest,” is home to a handful of Zhejiang’s top natural tourist attractions. Nestled in the area are Dinghu Peak, a 170-meter rock formation that the locals liken to a bamboo shoot; Hibiscus Gorge, which features more rocky outcroppings and fields of bright flowers; Good Creek, which snakes its way through the scenery; and Xiaochibi, a natural rock formation that gave rise to legends of dragon battles.
Dinghu Peak
The peak, a stalagmite mountain, is one of the highlights of the area. It holds the curious title of “No. 1 Stalagmite Stone in the World,” according to the local government. It is truly a sight to behold, especially when the fog comes rolling in. The entry fee will set you back 60 yuan (US$8.95), which includes entry to the mesmerizing Yellow Emperor Temple located at the base of the peak.
The Yellow Emperor is said to have been drawn to the area by its natural beauty, leading him to search for the key to immortal life there. Ceremonies at the temple built in his honor are still held every year to pay tribute to the legendary ruler.
For an extra 20 yuan, you can take a river raft trip on Good Creek, which affords an even more serene view of Dinghu Peak.
Zhutan Mountain
For a different view of Dinghu Peak, check out Zhutan Mountain, which has an entry fee of 15 yuan and gives you access to the other side of the river as well as the brightest field of flowers you’re ever likely to see.
To be honest, Zhutan Mountain offers little more than Dinghu Peak, minus the Yellow Emperor Temple, of course. It really feels that perhaps the two attractions should just be joined into one. Instead, the local government has blocked access between the two, making for a bit of a trek from one entrance gate to the other.
Hibiscus Gorge
About 3 kilometers from Dinghu Peak is Hibiscus Gorge, which has an entry fee of 25 yuan. It’s a green, breezy area punctuated by the twists and turns of Good Creek.
The area features a field of gorgeous hibiscus, and a short walk uphill offers an amazing bird’s-eye view of the area. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can pay a bit extra and go zorbing — a sport of rolling downhill inside a plastic orb.
For the more sedate, it’s a pleasure to just sit in the sun enjoying an ice cream.
Trekking to Hibiscus Gorge on foot takes about an hour from Dinghu Peak, or you can ride a bicycle or catch a ride with one of the locals.
Xiaochibi
The last natural attraction we visited in the area was Xiaochibi, which costs 10 yuan to enter. It features the remnants of a legendary battle with a dragon that is said to have occurred over 3,000 years ago.
According to the tale told to us by our local taxi driver, the Yellow Emperor, while in the area searching for the elixir of life, battled with Chiyou, a dragon who was his greatest enemy. The Yellow Emperor eventually won, and as Chiyou fled, his tail got struck in the cliffs next to Good Creek.
A long indentation in the rock face marking that spot has been turned into a tourist walkway that features a tunnel of a few hundred meters, clear views of Good Creek and a wire bridge that can support only five people at a time.
Jinyun City
If you’re looking for a bit of shopping or crave a much-needed hit of caffeine — the only coffee machine in the Xiandu Scenic Area broke down some time ago — you need to head to the city of Jinyun.
Be sure to check out Cross Alley, a beautiful, hidden passageway with interesting architecture and some great little souvenirs. Other bustling lanes offer hot local delicacies to satisfy a grumbling stomach.
Local delicacies
To be blunt, the local food is a bit forgettable. If you visit Jinyun thinking that you’re going to discover the next Sichuan cuisine, you will be sorely disappointed. But Jinyun does have several famous local delicacies worth trying.
First up is the famous Jinyun baked savory cake, which you can buy pretty much anywhere. It’s a bready cake filled with a delicious center of preserved vegetable and semi-fatty minced pork. The cake is baked inside a large, coal-filled chamber, giving it a crispy, smoky quality. These cakes are pretty delicious, and the locals say they’re best eaten with local dumplings.
You shouldn’t leave Jinyun without tasting the famous Jinyun noodles, a salty noodle served in a mild broth with pork and greens. Add spice to taste.
? Getting there: Jinyun and Shanghai are now connected by high-speed rail, placing Xiandu Scenic Area firmly within a weekend’s reach. It’s just a 2.5-hour journey from Shanghai’s Hongqiao to Jinyun West Station. From the station, you can catch one of the local cabs and arrive at your accommodation in about 20 minutes. There are plenty of places to choose, from the 3-star Xiandu Holiday Hotel, which everyone in town seems to recommend, to a myriad of bed-and-breakfasts, including one with a unique photography theme.
? Getting around: We found that getting around the Xiandu Scenic Area is largely doable by foot. Unfortunately, the roads in the area haven’t been designed with pedestrians in mind, so you’ll need to duck for cover when you hear trucks or buses approaching from behind. Be sure to carry a torch if walking at night.
For those adverse to walking too far, the town does offer bikes, which can be rented from any of the main tourist spots and then left at other tourist spots once you reach your destination.
But despite investing in dozens of rent-a-bikes, the area doesn’t have bike lanes or even safe biking areas on most of the roads. In fact, the roads were so unfriendly to bicyclists that we chose not to pedal our way out of safety concerns. On top of that, you need to pay a 300-yuan deposit in exchange for a rental card, and the deposit has to be paid in cash (no Alipay or WeChat payments accepted here).
Regular public bus service connects the Xiandu Scenic Area and Jinyun City. The fares are cheap, and you can wave the bus to stop wherever you are along the route.
If you’re heading to the city, the last stop is the bus station in the old area, so you might need to grab a taxi after that, depending on where you want to go.
While there are plenty of taxis in Jinyun, it can be hard to find one in the Xiandu Scenic Area if you want to go a little further on to other natural spots.
However, it’s easy to get a taxi to bring you home afterward. Be prepared to pay a set fare of 40-50 yuan each way.
